1.1

So first things first. I havent been out climbing much. Instead focussing on finger power. Why? No idea but a few deadhangs can't go a miss. Ive got a relatively rigid structure to the sessions with short term goals being met regularly. Im focussing on two and three digit hangs with an aim to be able to one arm three finger drag the small crimps without assistance, complete repeaters on back two on the small pockets (without injuring the finger again) and full repeaters, front two, on the small crimps. Subsidary to these goals Ive started doing very wide pull ups on an equally wide double door frame. Ive noticed on the couple of indoor sessions Ive had and a very specific problem outside that Im lacking in the shoulder department on these movements. Hopefully this will build up some sort of foundation which I can then transfer to the board. Im aiming to do five sets of ten repetitions with short breaks in between. Currently I fail on the first set at about seven.

Ive wanted to head upto the Clouds and specifically the Fifth Cloud since the new Peak Bouldering Guide came out to try the two problems put up there last year. On first aquaintance I was shocked to find the first move on the easier path up the wall practically impossible. I decided to see if I could do the upper moves and go from there if I was successful. A cracking stand up in its own right but probably missing the point hence 'The Imperfect Catch" goes at V7 maybe V8 and I sussed the moves and topped out after a few goes. Getting down to the guts of the problem I found rather than throwing for the dodgy edge head on, coming up short by a foot or more, that placing the left foot on a good edge low down and my right foot on a questionable smear on the arete meant I was hitting the hold, even on the first go. I was happy to unlock a bit of beta. A rarity for me I must say. I tried the move maybe forty times never quite grabbing the hold. I was a bit dissapointed. The edge is unusual. It almost looks like a granite hold with strange relief and a good edge emerging on the right. I settled for jump starting from the arete and dropped off from there. I was happy, honestly. I was cheating but something that was impossible had become quite probable in the space of an hour. Maybe on next aquaintance I can hold the move from the proper start.

I know problems like these will contribute towards my conquest. Wide, almost compression movements with a good seasoning of technique, well, body position is just what I'm after. How many more are like this in the Peak? Talking grades this one weighs in at 7C+ and I was, I really was, close to doing it in a session, with no beta. This is when grades come in useful. If i can consolidate around here in the next few months I will feel one step closer to my ultimate goal. So a new short term goal: five 7C's(+) each within one session. I'll settle for two to be honest but thats losing talk.